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how did you make those holy shit!!!

jfjskdk okay I'll take any excuse I get to talk abt this more

How I made my Cardassian prosthetics

Picture of a cosplayer dressed as Garak from DS9, cropped to above the shoulders. Their face is painted gray, with the characteristic Cardassian ridges, blue eyes, and black hair. They're wearing a red shirt with copper and black accents.

Disclaimer: I'm no expert, it's my first time doing this!! All the resources I used can be found online. In fact, here's a playlist of all the youtube videos I followed, in case you don't want to read the whole post. You can pretty much make any facial prosthetics following these steps, not just Cardassian ones.

What you'll need:

Materials on a desk. A bottle of liquid latex, a cube of gray modeling clay, a roll of plaster bandages, and a bag of white powder (which is plaster of Paris).

Plaster bandages, plaster of Paris (a lot more than is pictured here), modeling clay, and liquid latex. You'll also need some things you probably already have around the house, like vaseline (or cooking oil), plastic wrap, wood glue, rubbing alcohol, q-tips, cotton balls, and setting powder (or baby powder).

Step 1: Face cast

A selfie cropped to above the shoulders. The person's face is completely covered in white plaster bandages, leaving only the eyes showing. They're holding up a peace sign.

The goal here is to make a plaster copy of your face that you can sculpt your prosthetics on, by covering your face with plaster bandages and then casting that in plaster of Paris. This is the video tutorial I followed for this step. There are many methods, and you'll find tutorials for all of them on youtube, but this is the easiest way if you're doing it by yourself, and it results in a perfectly useable face cast for our purposes. And, if you're cosplaying Garak like me, it's a great way to get into character by experiencing claustrophobia for the first time in your life!! (Jk it's not actually that bad. I lived.)

The video explains the process better than I could, but here's some tips I learned from doing it! Wear a shirt that you don't mind ruining. Go a bit closer to your eyes than I did here. When you're propping up your mask in a bowl, make sure you're not squishing any parts of it or tilting it! I ended up with a dent in the chin of my face cast because I accidentally dented the mask while I was casting it. And make sure you have enough plaster of Paris! I probably used 2-3 pounds for this part. Here's what I ended up with, before sanding or sealing it with wood glue:

A plaster face cast on a desk. It's a replica of a face, but flat where the eyes should be, white and gray with a rough texture.

Step 2: Sculpting

The same face cast from the previous photo, now with Cardassian ridges sculpted on it with white modeling clay. It's laying on blue bedsheets.

This is pretty self explanatory, but also probably the hardest part. Just use lots and lots of reference photos. I've got a pretty good stash for Garak, if anyone's interested hdjkfhk. I found that gifs made better references than still photos, since they give you a better sense of the 3D shape. You want to make sure you're using modeling clay that doesn't dry. You don't need any fancy sculpting tools! I used my trusty palette knife to get the small details, but you could probably accomplish the same thing with, like, a spoon and a toothpick. It depends on what kind of clay you're using, but you can dip your finger in a solvent to smooth out the surface of the clay and blend the edges into the face cast. I used rubbing alcohol, but I also heard people recommend acetone. Once you're happy with your sculpt, you can move onto the next step!

Step 3: Casting negatives

The face cast, now with a cylindrical wall of clay built around the nose. Within the wall is a white liquid. The face cast is propped up on a book, with a carton behind it that reads "plaster of Paris."

This step is technically optional. The video I followed also outlines an easier way that skips this step, by simply building your prosthetics directly on the sculpt. But casting negatives allows you to get a lot more fine detail, and a smoother finish on the final prosthetics, so that's what I chose to do. Basically, you pour plaster of Paris over your sculpt, and it hardens into a mold you can use to build your prosthetics on.

Again, the video explains it better, but some tips! If it's possible with your sculpt, do it in small pieces instead of the whole face at once. I did the chin, nose, and forehead separately. If you try to do the whole face, there's a greater chance of it getting stuck or breaking. Of course, if you were doing, say, Odo, then it might not be possible to do it in multiple pieces. Another thing to watch out for:

A screenshot from a youtube video. It shows a face cast in profile on a table, with clay on it sculpted into the shape of a hooked nose and pronounced chin. The shape of the underlying face cast is digitally outlined in white, with arrows pointing to below the nose, lips, and chin. Overlaid text reads, "Potential undercut areas." The video is titled "Makeup Effects Tutorial: Silicone Prosthetic Mold" and is by the channel "Brick In The Yard Mold Supply."

If your underlying face cast has any "undercuts," or places where it's, like, concave, then if plaster gets into those areas and hardens, your face cast and your negatives will lock together, and you won't be able to use either of them. For me I was worried about the sides of my nose and under my bottom lip. As long as those parts are filled in with clay, then you should be fine. It's okay if your clay sculpt has undercuts! You can see in the (shamelessly stolen) diagram that their sculpt has a lot of undercuts, but that's okay because the clay is soft and won't lock with the plaster, it'll just come off. The video I got the diagram from was also pretty helpful, even if it's meant for casting with different materials than I used. Here are the completed negatives:

Three chunks of off-white plaster laying on blue bedsheets. They're shaped like a face with Cardassian ridges, but concave. The forehead and eyes are one piece, the nose is another, and the chin is the third.

Step 4: Making the prosthetics!

Now you have negatives! Your sculpt may or may not be intact, but if your negatives turned out okay then that's fine. This step is also covered in the video for step 3. Using a stippling sponge, foam brush, or q-tip, stipple thin layers of liquid latex onto your negatives. I found that a q-tip worked best, even if it took longer to cover larger areas. Make sure the edges are very thin, so you can blend them into your skin when you apply the prosthetics. Wait for a layer to dry before adding more latex on top of it, or you'll end up with fucked up results like I had:

An off-white latex prosthetic appliance shaped like a Cardassian chin, held up by a hand. Parts of the chin appear dented and wrinkled.
A similar latex prosthetic, but without any dents or wrinkles.

(Left: first draft, where I didn't let it dry enough before layering more. Right: second draft. Much better!)

Build up bulky areas with pieces of cotton balls, then cover the cotton with a thin layer of latex. Emphasis on thin! It'll take forever to dry if you saturate your cotton with too much latex. This step mostly involves a LOT of waiting. When the latex is fully dry, brush everything with a liberal amount of setting powder or baby powder to prevent the latex from sticking to itself as you peel it out of the mold.

Latex Cardassian prosthetics laid out on blue bedsheets. The forehead, with the central spoon and ocular ridges. The nose, with ridges running vertically up the center. The chin, with two sharp ridges creating a cleft shape.

And now you have your prosthetics! You can tear away some of the excess latex at the edges to make it fit your face better. I ended up tearing away almost all of the edges around the eye ridges, so it would blend better and I wouldn't have to get adhesive so close to my eyes. Tear, don't cut! It'll result in a more natural edge that's easier to blend. This video shows how to apply prosthetics. Use whatever prosthetic adhesive you want! I used spirit gum because it's what I had on hand.

Now you can go forth and live out your lizard alien dreams!!

A professional photograph of the same Garak cosplayer from the first image next to Andy Robinson. Andy has his arm around the cosplayer, pointing at them with his other hand, his eyebrows raised. The cosplayer is smiling giddily. They're wearing a red long-sleeved shirt with copper and black accents and a wide fabric belt, and matching red pants. Andy is wearing a light blue button-down shirt over a black t-shirt and khaki pants. The background is solid purple.

Bart Allen’s Characterization, as per his CREATOR. | Dare I say, the Bart Allen post, to end all Bart Allen posts? |

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Bart Allen is a character that is so often badly characterized that most people out there have no idea what he’s like. He’s constantly characterized as essentially a 7-year-old, and was even believed by some fans to be only 10-years-old to 12-years-old when his solo started. This is not the case, as while he arrived as a 12-year-old at the very beginning of his first appearance, his struggle was that he aged rapidly, meaning that by the end of that fiasco, his age settled at the age of 15-years-old.

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This isn’t even close to the only misconception about Mister Bartholomew Henry Allen the second. As due to later writers consistently infantilizing this once magnificent representation of a teenager with ADHD, that had fun dynamics as a fish out of water, his original personality is something that many Bart Allen fans wish would come back from the war once again. It was what allowed Bart to be an initially popular character, that had a decently lasting solo series, that was eventually slowly killed by bad characterization and infantilization.

Heck, it’s hard to begin to know where to start since there’s so many misconceptions about what was intended by his creator. I’m going to do my best, though, as I am one of those many that wish for Bart’s original characterization to come back. He’s not a hyper little boy as people think (Again, he was never 10-years-old. They just didn’t care to draw him properly when he returned. And his return panel is so widely shared these days). He’s actually the most teenagery teenager that’s ever existed.

So I’m going to start with the first issue of his solo series and go from there. I’m using the first ten issues of his solo as my line of research, since by then his characterization is readily fleshed out, and you can understand a lot of his true depth.

Also, this is going to be super long, but if you want to know Bart’s character like a pro-Bart-Allen-Er (?) this is the post for you.

What makes Bart unique, and what’s Bart like at school?

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thisisahyperfixationnow - Goddammit, what ninja turtle are you
Goddammit, what ninja turtle are you

Hi, Eli here. He/they, ADHD, and very gay, thanks

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